How to Tell the Quality of a Leather Product: A Deep Dive into the Leatherverse
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Time to read: 6 min
One of the most frequently asked questions I get from you is simple yet profound: How can you tell the quality of a leather product? With the holiday season approaching, my studio is stacked with a queue of products ready for dissection. But before diving into evaluating them, I want to give you a clear look into my thought process and the framework I use. If you’ve watched my past videos, you might already know about the five-pillar system I rely on to assess leather goods. In this post, I’ll go deeper, providing context so you can use it as a comparative tool, helping you understand quality relative to other products.
In this blog, we will answer the following questions:
- What are the five pillars of the Leatherverse, and how do they define leather quality?
- How can you evaluate leather using raw hides, tanning, and finishing techniques?
- What role do craftsmanship and structure play in the durability of a leather product?
- How does design influence usability, originality, and overall product sophistication?
- How can the Leatherverse Matrix help you determine whether a product is fairly priced or overpriced?
What's Inside?
The Five Pillars of the Leatherverse Hardware: Material, Coating, and Design Craftsmanship and Structure: Two Pillars Each Structure Involves: Design: Originality, Usability, and Sophistication Scoring and the Star System Introducing the Leatherverse Matrix: Price vs. Sophistication Putting It All Together Final Thoughts Want to read more? Frequently Asked Questions About Tanner
The Five Pillars of the Leatherverse
I like to think of leather quality assessment as a star system—a “Leatherverse star”—where each pillar represents a point on a star. The five pillars I focus on are Leather, Hardware, Craftsmanship, Structure, and Design. Each pillar is graded on a scale from one to five.
Leather and Hardware: These form the foundation of any leather product because they are the materials that make the product functional and durable.
Design: At the top, design acts as the guiding principle that unites all other elements into a cohesive, standalone product.
Craftsmanship and Structure: These are the side pillars, equally essential, as they determine how well a product holds together, both in form and function.
Each pillar has its own set of sub-pillars to guide evaluation.
Hardware: Material, Coating, and Design
Hardware is assessed similarly, with three core elements:
Material: Metals like brass, steel, zamak, or even plastic, depending on the product.
Coating/Finish: This affects longevity and resistance to wear.
Design/Engineering: The functionality, usability, and aesthetic of the hardware.
A well-crafted product uses high-quality hardware that complements the leather and design.
Craftsmanship and Structure: Two Pillars Each
Craftsmanship focuses on both the choices and the execution:
Choice of Techniques: How edges are finished, how stitching is applied, and how layers are assembled. These choices determine quality and longevity.
Execution: Once designed, the product must be executed consistently to maintain balance and function.
Structure Involves:
Engineering Complexity: How sophisticated the internal engineering is to maintain the intended shape.
Material Selection: Non-leather and non-hardware materials that form the product’s backbone. Both factors influence how the product holds up and functions.
Design: Originality, Usability, and Sophistication
Design combines three foundational elements:
Originality: How creative and unique the shape and concept are.
Usability: Practical functionality, including aesthetics and everyday usability.
Sophistication: The complexity of the design and how successfully it achieves a high-end or unique result.
These three sub-pillars collectively determine the product’s overall design score.
Scoring and the Star System
Each pillar is evaluated, and sub-pillars feed into a score from one to five. The result is a “star” or spiderweb chart representing the balance and sophistication of the product. A top-tier leather good scores a five in each category, producing the perfect Leatherverse star.
Introducing the Leatherverse Matrix: Price vs. Sophistication
Once a product’s star is determined, I use a “Leatherverse Matrix” to assess fair pricing. On the Y-axis, sophistication ranges from simple rugged goods to trophy-level bespoke pieces. On the X-axis, pricing multipliers reflect cost and value, usually starting at a 2x cost for basic products.
For example:
Entry-level rugged products (like Portland Leather) may cost $30 to make, with a 2x multiplier selling for $60. Fair pricing for their market and materials.
Sophisticated luxury pieces (like bespoke Ferragamo or trophy-level exotic leather goods) might cost $3,000 to make, but a 10x multiplier pricing them at $30,000 is fair given craftsmanship, materials, and uniqueness.
This matrix helps buyers determine if a product offers fair value or if they’re overpaying for branding.
Putting It All Together
By assessing leather, hardware, craftsmanship, structure, and design, then mapping it on the Leatherverse Matrix, you can make informed decisions about what to buy and understand the “why” behind a product’s price. Some products may appear expensive but are justified by sophistication, while others may be overpriced relative to their quality.
This methodology allows for transparency, comparison, and smarter purchasing decisions. It’s how I approach dissecting and grading leather goods in my studio, and it’s a system you can apply when shopping.
Final Thoughts
Understanding leather quality is more than just touch and look—it’s about materials, engineering, design, and value. By learning how to grade products across these five pillars, you can spot true craftsmanship, make fair-value purchases, and appreciate the artistry behind the leather goods you love.
Stay leathertained, and keep searching for those hidden stars in the Leatherverse!
Want to read more?
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I submit my product for the Leather Bureau of Investigation, and what happens after submission?
To submit your product, please complete this form. Once submitted, we'll review the details to determine if your product fits our project. If accepted, you'll receive an email within seven days. In return for your donation, we’ll send you a free product from our PEGAI catalog, and all information provided will be kept confidential. If not selected, you’re welcome to submit other products in the future.
This project is only for leather goods customers. If you're a brand, please refer to the Chopping Block / Rip My Bag Challenge FAQ.
How can I suggest a brand for review?
You can view all the brands currently on our list here: Brand List.
If the brand you want to see reviewed isn’t listed, simply leave your suggestion in the comments section! We’ll gather all suggestions and add them to the Suggestion Box in Tanner Leatherstein's website's Forum for voting, where the most requested brands have a chance to be featured next.
Does Tanner offer advisory services?
Unfortunately, not at this time.
Is Tanner available for media interviews?
Yes, Tanner is open for media interviews! If you'd like to collaborate on a feature or interview him, please email him directly at tanner@pegai.com.
Whether it's about leather crafting, brand reviews, or the business side of PEGAI, Tanner is happy to share his insights and expertise.
How can my brand participate in the "Rip My Bag" Challenge / Chopping Block?
Thank you for your interest in our "Rip My Bag/Chopping Block - Incognito" review program! This initiative offers leather brands a chance to be featured in front of a highly engaged audience.
- Limited Spots: We are only accepting 25 brands this year (2025), so space is limited.
- How to Apply: Submit your brand via the link below to join the waitlist. We will assess your products against our program’s standards. Submission does not guarantee acceptance.
- Notification: We’ll notify you of the results once the assessment is complete.
Program Fee: $1,250 USD
This fee covers production, due diligence, and content creation costs.
Please review the full terms and conditions available on the link for detailed information about the process.
We look forward to collaborating with you and showcasing quality craftsmanship to our audience!
About Tanner
Tanner Leatherstein
Known as the "butcher of leather bags," Tanner has amassed over 2 million followers and 301 million views, with features in outlets like The New York Times and Financial Times. PEGAI, Tanner's brand, embodies his passion for crafting premium leather goods with unmatched authenticity and precision.
