Why Does a Bag Cost $10,000? | The Power of Hardware

Hardware is often overlooked, but it’s a fundamental part of what makes a bag feel luxurious (or cheap). Through years of dissections, I’ve learned that great hardware can elevate a bag to an art form, while poor hardware can ruin even the most beautiful leather.

To understand hardware, we must look at three pillars: the material, the finish, and the design. Each tells a unique story about intention, investment, and quality.

Hardware can be made from a wide variety of materials — from plastic and wood to steel, titanium, or even precious metals like gold. But in the world of handbags, three materials dominate: Zamak, brass, and stainless steel.

Zamak — a blend of zinc, aluminum, magnesium, and copper — is the most common hardware material used today. It’s soft, easy to melt, and simple to mold under heat and pressure, making it the go-to choice for affordable bags. However, Zamak’s convenience comes at a cost. During the casting process, tiny air pockets form inside the metal, creating weak spots that can crack or break over time. It’s also prone to scratching, and its rough, dull surface must be sanded and plated to look decent.

Brass is tougher and more expensive to work with but offers superior durability and a timeless appearance. Its natural golden tone develops a rich green patina as it ages — the same one seen on vintage Coach and Louis Vuitton bags. Brass hardware can often be used without plating, simply polished to a shine. It remains a favorite among artisans for its beauty and longevity.

Then comes the best of the best — stainless steel. Hard to mold, costly to produce, and built to last a lifetime, stainless steel is the gold standard for high-end hardware. It doesn’t rust or corrode and feels substantial to the touch. Brands like Louis Vuitton have mastered this material, even investing in dedicated stainless-steel suppliers within the LVMH group to maintain consistent quality.

Once hardware is formed, it must be finished — sanded, polished, and sometimes plated or coated to achieve its final look.

The most common finishing process is electroplating, where metal particles are bonded to hardware using electrical currents. It’s affordable and effective, but also inconsistent and environmentally harmful, especially in low-end manufacturing. Many $20 “leather” bags sold on mass-market platforms use Zamak hardware finished with toxic plating processes — not only environmentally dangerous but potentially unsafe to touch.

At the other end of the spectrum is PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) coating. This premium method takes place in a vacuum chamber, where metals like gold or palladium are vaporized and fused to the hardware surface. The result? A long-lasting, scratch-resistant finish with an incredible luster.

Each PVD-coated piece must be hand-cleaned and meticulously prepared before entering the chamber. Fun fact: each PVD machine contains a 1–3 kilogram gold bar just to operate — a massive investment. Zamak cannot be directly PVD coated, so it requires an electroplated base layer first. This is why PVD finishes are generally reserved for premium materials like stainless steel.

We rarely think about hardware. Most of us don’t notice the clasps, studs, or screws — but they influence everything from cost and comfort to ethics and longevity.

At the lowest end, poor-quality hardware can harm people and the planet. At the highest end, it becomes wearable art — the jewelry of leather craftsmanship. So next time you pick up a leather bag, take a moment to appreciate the hardware. Feel the clasp, admire the polish, and honor the hands that crafted it.

Because behind every great bag lies a story of hundreds of skilled artisans — and the hardware is one of their finest contributions